Monday, 16 February 2015

the great expectations film and book review

The Great Expectations Charles Dickens'

The great expectations novel is a Charles Dickens classic set in the Victorian era, which explores the genres of gothic horror and love . The great expectations  is set through the eyes of Pip a young boy who lives with his sister and her blacksmith husband due to the death of his parents. Throughout the novel Pip becomes an acquaintance of Miss Havisham a wealthy spinster who adopts Estella who she can love and adore due to getting conned by the man she loved on her wedding day. Miss Havisham has Pip visit her regularly throughout the book for company for Estella but also in order to portray rejection, using Estella as her weapon against men . Pip soon becomes an apprentice of Joe Gargery the blacksmith but feels he has greater expectations as he matures and moves to Hammersmith in order to become a wealthy business man  however this backfires as he soon realizes his debts.

Throughout the book their are several losses Pips sister who becomes severely ill after an attack from Orlick a man envious of Pip, Magwitch a prisoner who Pip retrieves food for at the beginning of the novel  , who is later found out to have been Estellas father , and Miss Havisham who towards the end of the book sadly catches her dress alight in the fire during Pips visit and dies from severe burns. These elements tend to portray Gothic horror due to the way Dickens has worded the novel.

Throughout the book there is also elements of love for example after the death of Pips sister Joe later on marries Biddy, Pip's dear friend and tutor, and Estella and Bentley Drummle fall in love unfortunately for Pip as he always loved Estella.

The Gothic Horror Novel comes to an end as Estella's love for Drummle dies due his abusive behaviour and Pip and Estella reconnect their friendship.

The Great expectations 2012 film review

The 2012 great expectations film directed by Mike Newell,  focuses on the elements of love loss and rejection. The movie begins in a graveyard where Pip first meets Magwitch who he steals food for from his sister and her husband out of good will. Throughout the film Pip becomes an acquaintance of Miss Havisham a wealthy old women who  adopted Estella for company after being conned on her wedding day which Pip later finds out by Herbert Pocket. Miss Havisham appears to be rude and intimidating when she first appears in the film and becomes crazy and obsessed with the idea of Pips love towards Estella . When Pip first sets his eyes on Estella he immediately falls in love with her which  the movie mainly highlights his undying love for her throughout the film, Miss Havisham uses this as an advantage using Estella as weapon of rejection.

After becoming an acquaintance of Miss Havisham Pip soon becomes an apprentice of Joe the Blaksmith to Miss Havishams disapproval, but later goes on to have higher expectations and becomes a gentlemen. After leaving friends Joe and Biddy behind Pip soon becomes a gentlemen and later finds out to his horror Estella was to marry Drummle who he disliked Pip is distraught and shows Estella his love for her however she still goes ahead with the marriage.

Towards the end of the movie Pip finds out Miss Havisham made Estella the way she was towards love and is unforgiving of what she has done, as he goes to leave  Miss Havisham horrifically dies when her dress catches alight in the fire. Pip also finds out that Magwitch was Estellas father, when she was a child he was told she had died whilst Miss Havisham had adopted her, during Magwitch's last scene Pip tells him the truth and his love for her.

Pip also returns to Biddy and Joe who are found to be getting married after the death of Pips sister .The finally scene shows Pip seeing Estella again and finding that Drummle had died and the love between them was unhappy, pip once again shows his love towards Estella to her delight.















Miss Havisham makeup ideas

Miss Havisham ideas

For my constituency exam the idea is to create a miss Havisham style of makeup, which relates to the correct historical period and includes elements of appearance which is suggested in the Charles dickens Novel.

For my final miss Havisham idea I also had to incorporate into the makeup design an element of fear, therefore I had to take into consideration what I was afraid of. My fear is porcelain dolls and wax works, therefore I wanted to portray miss Havisham as porcelain . The photograph of the cracked face makeup was an inspiration as an element to include in my Miss Havisham makeup idea. After reading the novel I consider Miss Havisham as a fragile old women , during her last scene in the book she seems to be portrayed as quite crazy before her wedding dress caught alight in the fire , therefore I wanted to portray in porcelain look  the cracks on Miss Havisham face starting to appear.

The Vhelena. (18/09/13). haloween makeup ttorial. Available: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eWs1NMBnp5M. Last accessed 16/02/15.

 

 

 

In order to create the cracked face style of makeup, I firstly applied a kryolan foundation to my face to match my skin colour which I blended out using a buffer brush. Next using glue and broken egg shells I placed the broken egg shell pieces onto my face, then to make the egg shells match the colour of my skin I pained over them usingthe coloured foundation I used for the rest of my face. Finally in order to complete the look using fine makeup brush and the black from my supracolour pallet, I drew round the cracks the eggshells and extended the lines in order to exaggerate the cracks.

Overall I was happy with the idea of the cracked face makeup however I wasn't too keen on the positioning of the makeup.

In the Charles Dickens novel, the Great Expectations Miss Havisham is also portrayed as and old women , therefore in my Miss Havisham makeup design I wanted to incorporate the aged the look into my design.

In order to create the  aged look I firstly applied the a foundation base which matched my skin colour from my kryolan pallet, which I blended into the face using my buffer brush, next using a fine line brush and my camouflage pallet I highlighted any visible lines which I blended into the skin, using a white eyeshadow from m kryolan pallet I highlighted around the visible lines. I also applied a light colour foundation to the lips in order to seem more aged. Finally in order to complete the look I mixed white and yellow supracolour together which I applied to the eyebrows using a mascara wand against the hair .


Using the aged look and the cracked face makeup I incorporated the ideas together In order to create an idea for my Miss Havisham makeup.In order to complete the look I also create stippled skin on various areas of the face, using glue which I left to go tacky and then started to peel which I then covered with a foundation base which matched my skin.

After watching the Great Expecations clip starring Gllian Anderson as Miss Havisham I found Miss Havisham was portrayed as malnourished, she walked with her shoulders hunched and her lips were faded and starting to peel, therefore in my makeup design I applied a glue to my lips which I left to go tacky and peel and then I applied a light coloured foundation to my lips in order to highlight the idea of malnourishment.






I created a face chart in order to portray my cracked face Idea. Firstly using my glamour glow pallet I highlight the convex areas of the face. I then applied a pink to highlight the cheeks and a natural colour from my glamour glow pallet to also highlight the eyes. I then used broken eggshell which I added to the top left hand side of the face chart which I then covered using a skin base foundation . using a fine makeup brush and a black from my supracolour pallet I went round the eggshells in order to make the face appear more cracked.
In order to complete the look I applied a red lip liner pencil around the eyes, a yellow and white from my supracolour  to create the lashes and brows , I also applied a natural colour from my camouflage pallet to the lips.

Overall I wasn't very happy with the outcome of the face chart the eggshells aren't blended in as well on the face chart as they would be on the face due to not applying a foundation base to the whole of th face chart. I feel if I applied foundation to the whole of the face chart eventhough the eggshells would have blended in I don't think the makeup would have worked.
 




 






After reading the Great Expectations novel, Miss Havisham was known to of having her wedding dress caught alight in the fire and dying from severe burns. For My final Makeup design I also had to incorporate fear into my design and take into consideration what I am afraid of which is wax works, therefore I wanted to included the element of Miss Havisham face melting as if it was made from wax into my design.

Anonymous. (unknown). Morgue or tar 118. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/clarlay1227/morgue-for-tar-118/. Last accessed 16/02/15.
Using gelatine granules which I mixed in water then heated in the microwave I applied the mixed t half of my face using a paintbrush. when applied the mixture to my face I pointed the paintbrush up in order for the mixture t drop down the face in order to create a melted wax effect, then using a hairdryer on at a cool temperature I dried the gelatine. I carried out th process several times layering up the gelatine.

Next I applied a foundation from my Kryolan pallet which matched by skin colour I then applied the foundation  to my face and blended out using the buffer brush next using the camouflage pallet and a fine ma brush I highlighted any visible lines in order to appear more aged using, using a white from my eye shadow pallet I used this to act as a highlighter and highlighted the wrinkles.

I applied a light pink blusher to the cheeks to also highlight than makeup element and kept the eye makeup natural .

On the side of the face which didn't have the gelatine I created stipple skin and malnourished lips using a glue which I left to tacky and peel which I then covered over with a foundation.

Finally in order to portray the idea of Miss Havisham being burnt by the fire I used gelatine which I applied to the top left hand side of my face, which I then left to go tacky, then using my red from my surpacolour pallet I applied colour to area using a paintbrush in order to get a burned effect, I then applied another layer of gelatine to the area in order to give it a  shine and make the burn look dramatic.


Overall I was really happy with outcome of the makeup  and am considering using the idea for my final design. however I am going to practice the makeup design in order to become more confident with the design particularly with the aged makeup.
 

For my  second attempt at my final design, I used a different form of gelatine which was a slab of gelatine from screen face which I melted down in the microwave. I found this form of gelatine was thicker and worked much better than the gelatine granules especially for my melted face look.
In order to create my look I firstly applied a kryolan foundation to my face which I blended in using my buffer brush. One the side of the face which didn't not have the gelatine applied to the face using my camouflage pallet I started to add colour to any visible lines. I then highlighted over the visible lines using a white colour from my camouflage pallet.
next I melted the gelatine in the microwave and waited for the substance to slightly cool, in order to make the gelatine dry I used a hairdryer on a cool temperature.
I layered up the gelatine several times on the left side o my face in order to make the gelatine thicker and the drips more dramatic to look like melted wax.

I then applied a loose illamasqua powder over top of the gelatine to set the mixture and then used my kryolan foundation to bend into make the gelatine blend into the rest of my face . I then began highlighting the visible lines on the left ide of my face using a fine line brush, this was the make both sides of my face look aged and slightly even .In order to make the makeup seem a little Victorian I applied a light pink blush to the cheeks and a light grey colour to the eyes. Using a red lip liner pencil I went round my eyes to make my Miss Havisham character appear tired. I also applied a light colour to the lips
Finally to complete my Miss Havisham makeup I created a burn, by applying a layer of gelatine which I left to go tacky and then applied reds and a black from my supracolour and aquacolour pallet to make the burn seem more life like, once I had applied the colour to the burn I applied another layer of gelatine to make the bur seem sore and more dramatic.
Overall I was really happy with my design however in order to complete the burn I feel I needed to apply some blood and maybe Vaseline.
Finally to complete my Miss Havisham makeup I created a burn, by applying a layer of gelatine which I left to go tacky and then applied reds and a black from my supracolour and aquacolour pallet to make the burn seem more life like, once I had applied the colour to the burn I applied another layer of gelatine to make the bur seem sore and more dramatic.
Overall I was really happy with my design however in order to complete the burn I feel I needed to apply some blood and maybe Vaseline.

Once I had created my Miss Havisham melted face design I also had an attempt at incorporated my cracks on the face using eggshells idea, however I felt the look didnt work well together and made my makeup look like too much was going on.
 


Using the gelatine and my eyeshadow kryolan pallet I created a face chart for my final design. I firstly applied gelatine the the left side of the face on the face chart and applied a pink from my eyes shadow pallet to highlight the cheeks. I then used my glamour pallet to highlight the convex areas of the face and my camouflage pallet to highlight any areas where visible lines would appear on the face in order for the look to appear more aged. Once the gelatine was dried I applied a foundation base from my kryolan pallet to make the gelatine appear more skin coloured an then applied the same style of makeup to match the right side of the face.
Using my supracolour pallet I applied reds and blacks to the top left hand side of the face in order to create a burn.
In order to complete my look I applied a red lip pencil around the eyes and used a white and yellow which I mixed together in order to highlight the brows and lashes. I applied colour to the lips by using a natural colour from my camouflage pallet which I then went over with using a white eyeshadow in order to make the lips appear lighter.

overall I was quite happy wit the outcome of the face chart however I found applying gelatine to a face chart was slightly difficult .

 



Charles Dickens

Charles Dickens

Charles Dickens (1812-1870) was a classic English Victorian writer, who wrote many classic novels such as Oliver twist and The Great Expectations which was his second novel to be written. The novelist was born in Portsmouth and was sent to school at age of nine , However left shortly due to the occurrence of debt within the family. Charles was shortly sent to work in a blacking factory but return back to education after experiencing dark conditions . The experience of working in th blacking factory helped Charles dickens to create his second novel the great expectations as well as David Copperfield a novel which he used his father John Dickens as an inspiration to create a character that resembled him.

After writing several Novels Charles Became a popular Journalist working with his father who was a reporter in the 1830s , he began writing several parliamentary documents also. Charles Dickens also wrote an autobiography, and was very interested in the theatre , later in his personal life he even began write scripts and plays which were performed to Queen Victoria. Charles Dickens also went on to Marry an actress Ellen Ternan , which he settled down wit and had ten children.

In 1870 Charles Dickens sadly died of a stroke and was buried in Westminster abbey.

Anonymous. (unknown). History-Charles Dickens. Available: http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/historic_figures/dickens_charles.shtml. Last accessed 16/02/15.
Charles Dickens
Claire Tomalin. (07/02/12). A letter to Charles Dickens on his 200th business. Available: http://www.theguardian.com/books/2012/feb/07/letter-charles-dickens-200th-birthday. Last accessed 16/02/15.

Charles Dickens was known for writing a new style of gothic, his Victorian gothic style of literature, explored the use of romance as well. The great expectations which was one of his best written novels explored the use of gothic horror through its characters, particularly Miss Havisham, she was portrayed as a heroine who was a ' wronged women trapped in a young Heroine's ghost' according to ' the Routledge companion of gothic'. The Estella character was created to mirror Miss Havisham. The use of gothic architecture is very important in a gothic novel, the marshland and Statis house are two important locations in the novel which relate to gothic horror.
Charles Dickens usually related his novels to money as well as population patterns during the Victorian times.

edited by Catherine Spooner and Emma Mcevoy (19/10/07). The routledge companion to gothic. unknown: Catherine Spooner and Emma mcevoy. 30-32.

Thursday, 12 February 2015

Death Masks

Consumption and deathliness

The Victorians were known for having a fascination with the death and dying , this fascination can also be considered a fear due to Victorians also having their own death culture which included an obsession of being buried alive. Many rituals in order to avoid those being buried alive included Victorians who had experienced death would  leave the body up to three weeks, to decay and decompose in order to be almost certain that their loved ones had past before burying the body.

The Victorians would also carry out another ritual which was once someone had passed away, a bell would be placed above the ground with a bell ringer linking to the body just in case someone woke from a coma and happened to have been buried alive. the famous phrase "saved by the bell" is where the phrase originated from.

Anonymous. (07/11/12). why were women obsessed with death. Available: http://unhingedhistorian.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/why-were-victorians-obsessed-with-death.html. Last accessed 11/02/15.

During the Victorian era there was a high percentage of mortality, a humans life span was half of what it is in modern day times this was due to many factors such as
  • child birth and infant mortality
  • fatal diseases
  • death in the city
  • cholera
  • industrial deaths
Many victorian deaths were due to diseases , this was due to medicines being unavailable throughout the era. In 1859 sewer issues were experienced this caused an increase on poor health and hygiene , which also had an impact on why mortality was at a high percentage. An Approximate percent of 80% of Victorians died in the family household with family members surrounding them, witnessing the tradgedies .

Queen Victoria

 

During the Victorian era, mourning had reached its peak.
The obsession with death in the Victorian era began when Queen Victoria, air to the thrown experienced the loss of her beloved husband Prince Albert, for forty years she mourned dressed in black and mourned him. The average amount of time a person usually is in mourning for is for two and a half years. After the death of Prince Albert Queen Victorian was represented in images portraying a  bust or painting of her family or Prince Albert. Queen Victoria's aunt also died she was mourned for 21 days, mourning could sometimes last up to two years. People idolised Queen Victorian throughout the era and wanted to be like her this can be considered why the Victorians were obessed with death. Black writing paper with Envelops which were usually sealed with black wax was another tradition of the mourning period.

Maurice Baren (1999). victorian shopping. England: Michael Omara. 68-69.

The art of death

The Victorians presented there love for those who had passed in a variety of sentimental ways, such as mourning jewellery of loved ones which usually included locks of hair as a rememberance .The rise of park cemetery, the death of Prince Albert momentum and momento Mori , which was a reminder of death .

The Victorians had  many mourning traditions such as covering mirrors shutting curtains, stopping clocks and a wake which was when the body was watched at all times until the burial .Another Victorian tradition was to photograph the death and departed which gave the loved ones a visual record of the departed life, photography which was invented in 1839, was used to also photograph relatives to visit and have photographs taken with the departed this could sometimes meaning the body could be sat decomposing for a matter of weeks.
Victorian spirit photography was another tradition which focused on the mourner rather than the mourned
which was a popular way for a Victorian to grieve.

Anonymous. (07/11/12). why were victorians obsessed with death. Available: http://unhingedhistorian.blogspot.co.uk/2012/11/why-were-victorians-obsessed-with-death.html. Last accessed 12/02/15.

Mourning in the marketplace was another tradition which clearly highlights the Victorians obsession with death, this was a huge advertisement where professional mourners were needed. Professional mourners were people who would attend many burials and mourn, the louder a mourner would cry the more important the person was consider.

Death masks which is an example of momento mori were created using wax or plaster this would remind love ones of the departed. The death mask became a popular fashion after the famous death mask the unknown women of sane' was created in 1880 , the mask was created by an artist who found the women in a river in Paris her expression was considered to be mesmerizing as a result a reminder of the women was created.

In my own time I created three different types of death masks. Firstly I took a variety of photographs with different lighting and then applied shadows to the areas of the face, which appeared darker in the photographs .

Anna Edwards. (03/06/11). how girl who drowned herself becomes the most kissed faceof all time. Available: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-1393184/How-girl-drowned-Paris-kissed-face-time.html. Last accessed 12/02/15.

Modern fashion can also be considered as relating to the Victorian era, particularly gothic fashion which is known to include dark hair an makeup and clothing which can be considered as an inspiration from the Victorian era.
 
In order to create a death mask on our partners we firstly had to take photograph and analyse where the shadows appeared on the face .

Next I applied a white ilamsasqua base colour to the face to give a pale complexion then using a grey and black and grey eyeshadow from my kryolan pallet I applied shadow to the face, taking into consideration to make sure the product was blended into the face in order to prevent the makeup frm appearing patchy.




The first image I took was of the light being situated behind me. Analysing the image the left side of my face and under my chin appears quite dark in comparison to the right side of my face. When creating my death mask this was something I took into consideration.

Firstly I applied thin layer of illmasqua base colour which gave me quite a pale complexion, the using from my kryolan  eyeshadow pallet I shaded the darker areas of my face using a black and grey from the pallet, and in order to lighten and bring out certain areas of my face I applied a white from the pallet to act as a highlighter.

I was generally quite happy with te outcome of my first death mas which I created, I felt applying a light base colour helped the shadowed areas to stand out, also by using a powder product rather than a paint I feel made the makeup look more subtle and realistic .

I took several photographs of the first death mask I create in order to compliment the makeup .
 

my second photograph which I took for my second death mask was taken in a much lighter location which made majority of my face seem quite bright and the right side of my face and neck seem darker.

For my second death mask I experimented using different products for the look, this time I used light a light coloured foundation to act as a base and a darker foundation to highlight the shadows , In order to really  bring out the shadows around my features I applied a grey and black from my kryolan eyeshadow pallet to add more depth to the shadow.
Once I had taken my photograph of my second death mask I felt the makeup looked quite subtle and didn't show off its full potential therefore I decided to change the image to a black and white photograph in order to highlight the shadows.

I felt using foundation to highlight and shadow the skin helped  the skin seem more smooth which made the death mask seem more eery .
 
For my third attempt at a death mask I using only a white and black from my kryolan pallet in order to create a varity of different shades . I applied black to my features which appeared dark in the photograph particularly on the right hand side in the photograph aswell as the right hand side of my face for example on my forehead. I then blended out the colour on my face to create a shadow.
 
I found using supracolour for my death mask worked well especially when creating shadows and shading the skin from light to dark. However I feel previous death masks I have created by using eyeshadow worked better.
Using the grey and black from my kryolan pallet and my rounded blending brush I created a face chart resembling a death mask and portraying shadows.




 

Sunday, 8 February 2015

victorian hair

Victorian hair

When Queen Victoria took to the throne in 1837-1901, morals were very strict particularly on women, who had to portray themselves as fragile feminine natural beauties, this meant women were not allowed to wear makeup although majority of them discreetly wore homemade products, and hair had to be long and tidy.

Early Victorian hairstyles- the 1830s

During the early part of the Victorian era, womens hairstyles were styled into a centre parting which incorporated buns and plaits , which were many techniques which were also incorporated into the Elizabethans hairstyles. A typical women of the 1830's hairstyle also incorporated ringlets either side of the head which fell just above the chin . women who played in theatre were also known to wear bonnets to complete their hairstyles.

The trend of the 1830 which was also known as the romantic part of the era  was for a Victorian women to wear a large oversized hat which would accompany a women's hairstyle. The large oversized hats were known to have been decorated with white feathers ribbons and bows. This trend however was forgotten about by the 1940s. Bonnets were another style of hat which were popular for a Victorian women to wear, the coal scuttle bonnet in particular were suitable to wear for those who's hair was styled into an Apollo knot.

During the romantic era the Apollo knot was a popular hairstyle for Victorian women. The 'Madonna' an evening hairstyle for women  which was a section of ringlets situated around the crown and sides of the face was another hairstyle which was considered as a little elaborate but however, became popular towards the en of the 1830s and into the 1840's.

Pauline-Weston Thomas . (unknown). Romntic era 1825-1845. Available: http://www.fashion-era.com/romantic_era.htm. Last accessed 02/02/15.


Majority of the Victorian women were known to have has lovely long locks which was mainly tied back , women would rarely cut or washed their hair sometimes a Victorian womens hair wouldn't be washed for a long period of time therefore during the era, nightcaps became a common necessity in order to prevent dirt perfumed scents would sometimes be applied to the hair in order to prevent smell. The only circumstance in which a Victorian women would cut their hair was if hey became severely ill.
Victoria Sherrow (2006). encylopedia of hair : a cultural history. Westport: Greenwood Publishing group. 323.
anonymous. (2009-2015). photo Jane Bigby. Available: http://gallery.fansshare.com/community/uploads16/20927/jane_bigby/. Last accessed 03/02/15.
The portrait of Jane Bigby  highlights a clear indication of the 1830s hairstyle. Her hair is sleeked back into a plaited bun and several sculpted ringlets are situated around the face.

Mens hair in the 1830's

A Victorian mans locks usually dangled upon their foreheads. Some men wore a soft side parting or had their hair brushed slightly back off their faces. In the 1830's it was also common for a man to have their hair curled . Majority of men in the early Victorian era were known to have their hairstyles accompanied with sideburns or moustache. A hairstyle which was popular with both women and hair was ear looks which was a section of hair situated in front of the ear.  Many Victorian men would secure their hair in place especially if their hair was swept back of their faces by using oils on their hair.
Victoria Sherrow (2006). encylopedia of hair : a cultural history. Westport: Greenwood Publishing group. 323.
anonymous. (unknown). men portrait 19c. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/irinachiara/men-portrait-19-c/. Last accessed 02/02/15.
The portrait of a Victorian man from the 1830's conveys curls and a soft side parting.

1840s-1850s Victorian hair

During the mid Victorian era , plaits which were twisted into bun shapes became a popular Victorian hairstyle for women, which also can be considered as the development towards the Apollo knot. Decoration such as combs and flowers also started to become incorporated into women's hairstyles. Another element of a Victorian womens hairstyle was to ensure it was sleek and smooth as a result a product which became popular in many womens households was Vaseline which would act as an oil to smooth out the hair. Hats which were situated on top of the head became a common accessory for women to wear during the mid Victorian era.

anonymous. (2014). history of fashion 1840-1900. Available: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/. Last accessed 03/02/15.
The portrait conveys the hair being situated into a centre partin and the hair been sleeked back into a plaited bun shape.
Bartos J. (unknown). civil was era. Available: http://www.bartoscollection.com/hairstylesbyera/hairstylescivilwar.html. Last accessed 03/02/15.


Mens Hair in the 1840s-1850s

A Victorian mans hair in the mid Victorian era became slightly longer, which was situated over the ears. Towards the 1850s the wave situated at the front of the hair became a popular male hairstyle. Facial hair played a huge part in the mid Victorian era, heavy mostaches started to become popular, and older Victorian men started to support heavy beards. Eve nthough facial hair was still hugely popular during the mid Victorian era, some men were starting to become clean shaven.

anonymous. (unknown). mens portrait gallery 1840. Available: http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/1840-victorian-photo-gallery.php. Last accessed 02/02/15.

anonymous. (2014). history of fashion 1840-1900. Available: http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/h/history-of-fashion-1840-1900/. Last accessed 03/02/15.
The portrait supports the clean shaven look. The hair is situated above the ears and also conveys the wave situated at the front of the hair.

anonymous. (unknown). victorian mens fashion. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/bornin1808/victorian-mens-fashion/. Last accessed 03/02/15

 

The Apollo knot

The Apollo knot was a popular hairstyle for Victorian women during the 1830's to the 1850's. The hairstyle was separated into three elements which were a centre partin a bun situated on top of the head and several ringlets either side of the head which fell just amongst the chin. women sometimes used hairpieces in order to create the bun element of the Apollo knot hairstyle, in order to make their hair seem fuller. In the 1840's and 1850's it became known that women would use hot metal tongs in order to style their hair , over  a period of time this would cause a Victorian womens hair to become corse and break off, which can be considered another reason as to why hair pieces became popular particularly with the Apollo knot hairstyle.

Anonymous. (unknown). apollo knot. Available: http://www.fashionencyclopedia.com/fashion_costume_culture/European-Culture-19th-Century/Apollo-Knot.html. Last accessed 02/02/15.
Hila Shachar. (03/01/12). the allure of the bun. Available: http://www.behindballet.com/the-allure-of-the-bun/. Last accessed 03/02/15.
The portrait highlights a clear Victorian Apollo knot hairstyle . The plaited bun is situated on top of the head. The curls are situated either side of the head and the hair is styled as a centre partin.

Victorian hair in the 1870s

During the 1870s the hairstyles particularly the style of buns became more elaborate and complicated hair was braided and then tied back into a bun  . long loose locks became popular as an eveningwear hairstyle for women and they sides of the hair started to become more sleek whereas at the beginning of the Victorian era ringlets were situated at the sides of the head and the rest of the hair was portrayed as sleek. Fringes also started to become more popular with Victorian women towards the later part of the Victorian era.

anonymous. (2011). victorian era fashion. Available: http://victorianeracnr.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01/fashion.html. Last accessed 03/02/15.

anonymous. (2014). victorian era project. Available: http://rodriguez9-3.pbworks.com/w/page/10300417/Fashion. Last accessed 03/02/15.

The sketch highlights how complicated Victorian hairstyles became towards the end f the era. fringes became popular and as well as loose curls.

Mens hair in the 1870s

During the 1870s Victorian mens hair became significantly short, and oil became a popular product to sleek back the hair . Oil was also used on heavy moustaches. . Facial hair during the later Victorian era, became more varied , beards and full moustaches were still very popular.
1870 victorian clothing
The portrait highlights the variety of facial hair an the short sleeked back hairstyle.

anonymous. (unknown). mens portrait gallery 1870. Available: http://www.gentlemansemporium.com/1870-victorian-photo-gallery.php. Last accessed 03/02/15.

Victorian hair in 1880s to 1890s

Towards the end of the Victorian era hair become more curly and elaborate and fringes became een more popular during the 1880s however towards the end of the era fringes were styled in a centre prating a grown out to become long fringes, some women even wore false fringes in order to follow the trend. Victorian women started to also use hot metal tongs in order to create waves in their hair which was created by marshelle in 1872 and was commonly known as the 'Gibson Girl' style.

Miranda sinclair. (unknown). hairstyles 1880 -1890. Available: http://www.ehow.co.uk/info_8507544_hairstyles-18801890.html. Last accessed 03/02/15.

kenneth. (08/03/2014). JC leyendecker and the arrow collar man. Available: http://americanamercantile.com/. Last accessed 03/02/15

The image of the Gibson girl a black and white pin up highlights the relaxed fringes and curls during the later part of the Victorian era.

mens hair in the 1880s and 1890s

Mens hair still remained short and sleeked back with a centre parting as they did in the 1870s, the clean shaven look and the walrus moustache still remained popular and the long sideburns were also supported in a Victorian mans hairstyle

Miranda sinclair. (unknown). hairstyles 1880 -1890. Available: http://www.ehow.co.uk/info_8507544_hairstyles-18801890.html. Last accessed 03/02/15.
Anonymous. (unknown). victorian era fan guide. Available: http://victorianfanguide.tumblr.com/post/37305659285/fortunately-mens-fashion-didnt-evolve-as-much-as. Last accessed 03/02/15.

The photograph of the Victorian man highlights the hair short and sleeked back using oil, accompanied with long side burns . The photograph also convey a Victorian man supporting a walrus mostache.

The Gibson Girl

In the 1890s the Gibson girl which was an iconic black and white pin up girl was created by illustrator Charles Gibson, the pin up had a massive impact on the 1890s particularly on the Victorian womens hairstyles. From the end of the Victorian era to the first world war the Gibson Girl was commonly known as the ideal women during the Victorian era .

Anonymous. (2013). The Gibson girls America. Available: http://www.loc.gov/exhibits/gibson-girls-america/. Last accessed 03/02/15.

kenneth. (08/03/2014). JC leyendecker and the arrow collar man. Available: http://americanamercantile.com/. Last accessed 03/02/15

Homemade hair products

A popular  product during the Victorian era which acted as an alternative to shampoo was toilet soap or castile soap or toilet soap which was applied to the hair once a week. Vinegar was another product in which women would use on their hair the product would be applied to the roots in order to make the hair soft and shiny. Victorian men and women applied oil and Vaseline to their hair in order to sleek their hair back .

Lori Elliot. (10/04/2013). victorian shampoo alternatives. Available: http://ourheritageofhealth.com/victorian-shampoo-alternatives/. Last accessed 03/02/15.

Here are some photos from the Victorian Panarama book clearly displaying early Victorian hairstyles.



P.Quennel (unknown). Victorian Panarama. England: Unknown. 91-97

recreation of Victorian hairstyles

I created a rough sketch of the popular Victorian hairstyle the Apollo knot in order to convey my understanding or the different victorian hairstyles throughout he era.

In order to convey my understanding of a late Victorian era hairstyle I firstly took a section of hair which I slightly back combed an pulled back of the face then I create a bun at mid height which I then secured two simple plaits too, I found creating a Victorian hairstyle quite difficult due to the length of hair on my dolls hair in order o create a reasonable sized bun which was secure I had to slightly back comb the hair.
Anonymous. (unknown). victorian womens hair 1870s. Available: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=victorian+era+1890s+hair&biw=1188&bih=559&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=vVfRVIaTLM-xadOpgrAJ&ved=0CCAQsAQ#tbm=isch&q=victorian+womens+hair+1870s&imgdii=_&imgrc=x. Last accessed 03/02/15.

The sketch in the top left hand corner was my inspiration for a late Victorian era hairstyle it highlights how hair has become more sleek at the sides whereas at the beginning of the Victorian era sculptured ringlets were situated at the sides of the hair.

I created a mid Victorian hairstyle by firstly sectioning the hair into a centre partin, then by creating a high bun on top of the hair. The remaining section of hair I created loose ringlets using hair tongs.
Rockwood New York photography . (unknown). Hot cross buns. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/gabbygerty/hot-cross-buns/. Last accessed 08/03/15.

The photograph of a Victorian women was the inspiration or my recreation of an 1850s -1860s hairstyle, majority of the hair is styled as loose sculpted curls , the top section of hair is pulled back off of the face and styled into a bun.


Next I created an early Victorian hairstyle by using a small section or hair at the front of the head to create several sculpted ringlets which fell jut below the ear on either side of the head. With the remaining section of hair I created a bun. Most buns in the Victorian era were plaited however due to the amount of hair on the dolls head I struggled to created a bun, in order to create a secure bun I slightly back combed the hair and secured it in place using a few hair pins.

The photograph shows a front view of my early 1830s Victorian hairstyle

Pippa Bear. (09/02/13). art deco. Available: http://pippatreevintage.com/page/7/?s=art+deco. Last accessed 08/02/15.
The photograph was my inspiration towards creating an 1830s Victorian hairstyle. The photograph shows the sculpted ringlets on either side of the head falling just below the ear.
This was my first attempt at creating ringlets for an early Victorian hairstyle, In order to create sculpted ringlets which fell above the hair I firstly  created a centre partin thensectioned the hair using my pin tail comb and then using the hair tongs I wound the hair up the curlers ,  in order to avoid any loose ends when curling the hair I tucked the ends under the hair tongs using my pin tail comb.

Once I created the sculpted ringlets I created a plaited bun with the remaining section of hair which I found quite difficult due tot the length of the dolls hair.
In my own time I sketched a late Victorian hairstyle . The sketch shows how fringes became popular in the late victorian era and hairstyles become more elaborate

contemporary Victorian hair

anonymous. (unknown). victorian hair . Available: https://www.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-hair/. Last accessed 08/03/15.

The hairstyle in this photograph was inspired by the late Victorian era, due to the hair being much more complicated to the early Victorian era. The top section of hair I styled into a modern bun and the remaining section of hair has been styled into loose curls.

anonymous. (unknown). victorian hair . Available: https://www.pinterest.com/explore/victorian-hair/. Last accessed 08/03/15.
The hairstyle in this photograph was inspired by a mid Victorian hairstyle around the 1850s , majority of the hair has been smoothed back off the face into a bun and the remaining section of hair has been sculpted into ringlets.


hair and the civil war

In 1860 the Civil war was a major event which effected Victorian women appearance, majority of women were known to have worn hairnets one which was made from ribbon or either one which would match the womens haircolour and be made simply from netting. During the civil war women would also cover their hair by wearing a bonnet which was a popular style of hat throughout the Victorian era. A Victorian women would also style their hair in a secure bun however towards the end of the civil war hair pieces were included in Victorian womens hair in order to create larger and more complicated hairstyles.
anonymous. (14/10/06). civil war ladies hairstyles and accessories . Available: http://somethingvictorianblog.blogspot.co.uk/2006/09/civil-war-ladies-hairstyles-and-hair.html. Last accessed 08/02/15.
anonymous. (unknown). victorian and edwardian hairstyles. Available: http://bartoscollection.com/vehairstylesbyera.html. Last accessed 08/02/15.
the photograph shows a Victorian women supporting a hair net matching her hair colour in order to cover her hair.
Penny Zeller. (unknown). hairstyles for my characters. Available: https://www.pinterest.com/zellerpenny/hairstyles-for-my-characters/. Last accessed 08/02/15.